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北岳

北岳山頂

I started to consider climbing up a mountain in south Alps in Japan, right after I climbed Mt. Yari in 2018. I could not accumplish that in 2019, due to my broken bone in my left arm. In 2020, the whole South Alps was closed due to Covid-19. This was the long-awaited chance to climb up Mt. Kita.

2018年、北ア槍ヶ岳を登った後、南アにも行きたくなった。2019年は骨折で断念。2020年はコロナで断念。今年こそは!と南ア北岳にお邪魔しました。

芦安駐車場  (Ashiyasu Parking lot)

In the previous day of the climbing day, I drove to parking lot in Ashiyasu. Driving to this parking lot was scary because it is a drive alone in the narrow and dark mountain path. However, in the parking lot, there were many climbers already parking there in 10:30 pm. A morter cyclinst was even sleeping on the ground with sleeping bag. Oh, that looks cold.

I wrapped into a blanket, slept while listening a ukrere sound, strum, strum, and strum. 

前日10:30pm頃、芦安駐車場に着く。芦安に行くまでの道は暗くて狭くてかなり怖い。

しかし芦安第二駐車場に着いたら、多くの車が同じことやっていて安心した。バイクの人は、地べたにシェラフで寝てた。

夜叉神峠

It was not that cold before midnight, but it started to be really cold. Awake, and searched for some heat pad, but too sleepy to search for my sleeping bag. I managed to sleep a bit more, and stayed in car a while after feeling for bathroom visit. Finally I got up and went 3:30 am. Surprisingly the other neighboring climbers were already up.

最初はあまり寒くなかったけど1時~2時頃になったらすごく寒くて起きてしまって、しかもトイレに行きたかったのだけど怖くて行けない情けない状態。それでも少し寝て、朝3:30amごろ、起来てトイレに行った。もう周りも起きだしていた。


南アスーパー林道から北岳

乗り合いタクシーの人に声かけられて、5時に出るから荷物のっけて!とすごいセールス。運転手の方にお姉さん、一人?と二、三回聞かれた。今時女性ソロなんてゾロゾロいるし。驚くなよと思った。Subaruのロックを確かめに一度出たら、複数停まっていた乗り合いタクシーのうち、どのバンに荷物を持ってかれたか分からなくなりひと悶着。私ホント、コミュ障だなあ。

As soon as I started wondering around the parking lot, callers of taxi cab started to get their passengers before they goes to the public transportation. I asked them the price and it was just 1,300 yen. I decided to get on their taxi. To my annoyance, they asked me if I am alone several times. I see so many female solo climbers out there, and appalled people here are so outdated.

不思議だったのは、マイカー規制がかかっていて、一日5本のバスしか通らない林道内に、それとは別のバス停があること。ん?林道内に住んでいるということ?

The odd thing I saw was a couple of bus stop on the road. The road, The South Alps highway around the climbing spot is restricted to drive, and only allowed public transportation or registered taxi to can go through. However, I saw some bus stops where climbers bus does not stop. I wonder if there are residents along side of the South Alps super highway.

広河原 (Hirogawara entrance)

6時頃に広河原に到着。平日だというのに結構バスから降りた人は多かった。天気が良い、ということを知った人が集まったのかな。
河原を渡す橋を渡ってしばらくは緩やかだったが、すぐに急登が始まる。

白根大池まで急登、時々鎖場があった。登山ステッキが絡んでにこけて、岩に顎をぶつけたりした。やっぱり急登ではステッキではなくピッケルか。

I reached at the Hirogawara Climbing spot around 6 AM. The bus was full even though it was weekday. Many climbers decided to act this day since the weather forcast said the day was clear, but would be stormy in the following weekend.

The path to Shirane-Oike was steep hill with a couple of cliffs. My climbing stick was not so helpful in rocky area. I probably needed pick axes instead.


白根大池 (Shirane-Oike)

白根大池からの「草すべり」急登。しかもジグザグで長い。今まで山登ってて、一番きつい登りだったと思う。天気が良かったのが救いです。

Even after Shirane-Oike was steep. The long route goes zig-zag and rough. I think the hardest in my climbing history. But the view from the route was excellent!

白根大池


途中の小太郎尾根分岐手前で皆さんが集まって休んでいる。つらいーと声を上げていて笑った。こういう、たくさんの人と話しながら山に登るのは初めてです。

I was not only person who felt the path was tough. I saw a group of people gathering around the Kotaro branch to take a rest. I had some small talks with them briefly. It was first time for me to talk with other people like this while I am climing.

肩の小屋の手前に信じらんない崖があった。あとから来た、さきほど分岐の所で話した方に私が落としたステッキを拾ってもらってしまった。ソロは好きだけど、山で他の方に助けられることが多い。こういうことがあると、登山サークル入ろうかなと思ってしまう。

Right before reaching to the Kata no Koya, there was a huge cliff with rope. I dropped my climbing stick. One of the person followed me picked my stick in the below. I thanked him and start wondering if I should join in some local climbing group, even though I like solo climbing usually. 

肩の小屋 (11:00AM)

急登つづきですっかり疲労困憊。ここであんパンを頂く。私は高いところであんパンを食べるのが好きです。

I reached Kata-no Koya, used up all energy. I ate a sweet bean bread. I love eating this in places with high altitude.  

肩の小屋

休んでいると、先ほど少しお話しした方々が登ってくる。どうやら私は少し早めのペースで登ってきたみたい。毎日、私は犬たちと走っている。少なくとも足筋肉に貢献しているのかもしれない。(腕筋肉はない。だから岩場は苦手)

While I was taking a rest, the other people who I had just talked caught up to me. I seemed to be a bit faster than them. I might have good muscle on my legs, since I run with my dog regularly, so but no strength on my arms.

北岳山頂 (12:30 AM)

肩の小屋から北岳山頂は、岩・岩・岩!!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      腕を使って岩にしがみつくところはあるし、下が崖の狭い足場もあるし危険。正直どっちに行ったらいいのか分からない。上りも下りも、目印のマーキングが北アに比べて少ないです。

After the Kata no koya to the peak of Mt. Kita was filled with rocks after rocks! I had to grab and lift using my upper body strength (=no strength) where no way to grab and no place to put my foot on. Compare to North Alps mountains, peaks in South Alps don't have so many marking to guide climbers between rocks.

頂上の後, 北岳山荘まで も、岩ばかり!北岳山荘はたまに見えるのですが、結構きついザレた下りと登りを繰り返します。
The path beyond the peak on the way to the Kitadake hut was also filled with rocks and degraded rocks. I could see the destination Kitadake hut between rocks, but I barely found places to set my feet.

山頂付近1

山頂付近2

北アが見える

白山も見える

八ヶ岳や北アのみならず、日本海直前の白山まで見渡せる晴れ日でした。
It was so sunny day that I could see Mt. Hakusan along side of Japan Sea 

岩岩


北岳山荘 (14:30 AM)

やっと、山荘に着いた。チェックイン。
Chacked in!

去年はコロナのため完全封鎖していた南ア。今年は対策済みの名の下、営業している。なので色々新しいルールがある。メール確認はできたが、ネット環境がもちろん貧弱のため。QRコードが表示できない。QRコードチェックインにこだわるならむしろプリントアウトを事前から指示したほうがいいと思った。
あと、何故かスリッパを貸し出されて、与えられたスリッパ以外は履かないように言われた。スリッパねえ。貸し出さなければいいんじゃ?
まあこのスタイルの経営は一年目だしね、試行錯誤しているんでしょう。

Last year, the whole South Alps was closed due to Covid-19. They opened in this year under new rules and conditions awkwardly. In the check-in counter they asked to show QR code linked from the confirmation email, where they don't have stable internet connection. They asked patrons to if they printed out the QR code beforehand... Well, I think no one should operate inns needing internet connection for check-in, where no internet connection available.
The awkwardness went slipper issue as well. They rent their slipper out for each patrons, asking not to use others slipper, due to Covid-19 awareness. In-house slipper would not be absolute necessity anyway. I think they were adding unnecessary rules under the name of Covid-19 and ruining mountain experience. 

コロナ対策でマットレスのみの提供。なのでシェラフを持ち込んでいます。しかしこのマットレス、ビニールがかかっていて、人が動くとすごい音がする。案の定、隣の人が寝返り打つだけで大音響になって、よく眠れませんでした。まあ、一年目だしね…。
あとこのマットレス、強烈にセンベイでほぼ床と同じなので、シェラフだけではなく、エアマットも持っていったほうがいいです。

They offer matless, but no bed due to again, Covid-19. So patrons had to bring sleeping bags. The matless was wrapped with vinyl layer. Thee vinyl layer made big noise when the sleeper twisted and turned. I could not sleep well because of the noise, and the matless was hard like stone. I would advice anyone who will stay Kitadake hut also bring air-matless for camping.

夜ごはんは17:00
Dinner at 17:00


夕焼け
夕焼け夕焼け

夕焼け


消灯は20:00 夜になって強風になりました。すごい嵐の音が外でしていた。

All lights turned off at 20:00. It was windy night and I heard whoosh, whoosh, clank clank sounds of wind passing from western Japan to the east.

朝はご来光を拝みました。Sunrise from the ridge.







ご来光を見てすぐ、帰路に立ちました。間の岳にも行きたかったけど、脚の疲労が限界で、これ以上体力を使うより、安全に下山する方を選びました。
北岳山荘の方に、八本歯のコルを通る道の方が近いですか?と聞いたところ、そちらから行くとコースタイムは短いけど、体力的には厳しい、という話を聞きました。梯子が連続するし、落石も多い(つまり私の苦手な岩々コース)なので、素直に帰った道を戻ることにしました。

Though I originally thought about going Ai no dake, but I decided to go back to the base of the mountain right after seeing the sunrise. My legs were quite exhausted and I took precedence on safely going back home.
I asked the staff in Kitadake Hut to see if Happonba route was easier. However, that route was harder with ladders and ropes, and lots of fallen rocks from the wall cliff.
I decided to go back the same path as the one I came. 

北岳山頂 (The peak)

前日とは打って変わって、ガスは出てるわ、ひどい強風だわ、で岩場で難儀しました。足場不安定なところで強風にあおられて、岩にへばりつきながら歩行をします。北岳山荘は山頂から間の岳側に下った所にあるので、帰りと言えど、登りもある。空気薄いうえに強風だから、自分のリズムで呼吸ができなくてツラい。

The weather changed a lot from the previous day. I had to go through rocky area in fogs and gusty wind. I had to grab rocks tighter than the last day trying not to be flown away, fallen into the deep valley. The Kitadake hut exists lower altitude than  Kitadake peak, so I had to climb up again to go back home. I could not breath well in the strong wind, and lack of oxygen in the high altitude.

肩の小屋 (Kata no Koya)

ガスって外のベンチが濡れていたので、コーヒーを中で頂いて小休止。こちらでバッチを買いました。

I took a rest at Kata no Koya again since the fog made everything outside wet.

白根大池 (Shirane-Oike)

土曜日なので、上がってくる人も多いです。軽装で入山する人や午後近くから上がってくる人、外国人が圧倒的に多い・・・英語情報が足りないのか、タフだから大丈夫なのか?どっちにしろ、紫外線対策必要よ。山で肌をさらしていいこと、ない。

I met many climbers coming up on the way of my descending. Some people carried so small back packs wearing summer clothes, seemingly not quite prepared for Kita. I don't recommend exposing your skin when you are climbing at all.



白根大池の直前でまた転倒。Archtrexの夏用パンツ履いていたのですが、パンツにダメージ無いのに、中で膝に少し出血。Archtrexタフだ…!

I fell down right before Shirane-Oike and bleed a bit on my knee, but I didn't damage Archtrex pants. Archtrex fabric is durable...!


この日は荷揚げの日だったらしく、各山小屋にヘリがデリバリしてました。
It was the day of delivery  I could see a helicopter back and forth between the base and huts. 

広河原(Hirogawara entrance)

14:00の芦安経由甲府行のバスで帰路に。下りと言えど汗だくで、トイレで着替えました。
市営バスでは、トランク荷物は預かってくれません。しかも椅子の上にも置くなと言われます。しかし通路は狭いので、40ℓ以上の大きな荷物は通路に置けません。無理。つまり公営バスは登山荷物のサイズを考慮しないルールを設けています。テン泊などで大きな荷物の方は、迷わず乗り合いタクシーの方を選んだ方が無難です。

I reached Hirogawara entrance around 13:00. The next public bus leaving from the entrance to Kofu station was 14:00. I sweated a lot so I changed to some dry cloths in the bathroom. 
The public transportation bus did not let the passengers use the trank storage at the bottom of the bus, AND they did not allow to put the luggage on the seat. But the aisles are too tiny to put big back packs. The rule has no sense. If you brought bigger back pack than 40 liter, I would recommend using taxi bus than public one.

芦安駐車場 (Ashiyasu parking lot)

駐車場横の温泉に立ち寄りました。ここでもスリッパを貸し出されて、与えられたスリッパ以外は履かないように言われます。コロナがそんなに気になるなら、貸し出さなきゃいいのに…いや、もしかして、芦安地区では、スリッパを貸し出さないといけないルールがあるのかもしれません。

As soon as I reached car, I took a bath right next to Ashiyasu parking lot. They rent out slipper for me and asked me not to use other slipper. Again, just give up in-house slipper. Or, I wonder if Ashiyasu area have some culture to lend slipper to guest.

家!

中央自動車道で事故渋滞が起こり、帰宅まで4時間半かかりました。(泣)
運転開始前に旦那に「肉が食べたい!」とリクエストを送りましたよw。

I sent message to my husband requesting meat for dinner, and left the parking lot around 16:00. But due to the traffic jam caused by accident on Chuo-highway, it took 4 hours and half an hour to get home. 

疲れましたが、3年前から登りたかった北岳、どうしても五十代突入前に登りたかったので、無理してでも決行して良かったです!

I used up all my muscles and exhausted, but I am glad I finally climbed Mt. Kita since planning for 3 years, before getting into my 50s.




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